And there was the cenote…

don Gonzalo

It is a massive cenote one and a half kilometers into the jungle near Cobá. Its “off the beaten track” location means that you can enjoy it without the hordes of screaming and splashing masses of humanity normally found at cenotes in the area around the archeological site. On a recent visit to the area, I learned about how it had been discovered.

For our rapt audience of two, with a local caretaker looking on, our guide Rene explained that the cenote was only discovered some 17 years before when a group of villagers hunting game came upon a hole in the ground just big enough to fit a man into. Long roots from an overhead alamo tree led into the darkness. Three of these hunters clambered down and discovered the massive cave that was directly below their feet. And, dramatically pointing at the caretaker, Rene exclaimed "and this is one of those three!"

Astonishingly, Gonzalo (the man in question) then recounted how he and his compañeros had descended into the relative darkness and that while getting into the cenote was not so difficult, the getting back up to the surface proved much more challenging! When you are the third person trying to pull yourself up on tree roots that are soaking wet from the others who have clambered up ahead of you, it is very hard indeed.

Pero, ni modo” he added “habia que salir!

And salir he did, to tell the tale.

It is not every day that you get to meet someone who actually discovered a cenote and this was a perfect ending to an amazing cenote experience.

If you would like to experience this cenote, along with authentic Mayan experiences in the jungles around Coba, drop us a line and we can discuss a multi-day Mayan adventure that will create memories to last a lifetime, as well as benefitting local Mayan communities.

A civilized spiral staircase has replaced the more dramatic root access method. Even us older folks can now access the place.

Kohunlich - Magical, Archeological, Mayan

I write this from the Explorean Kohunlich, a fancy hotel I was invited to by my generous partner in crime, also known as the Better Half on the LawsonsYucatan (no tourism there) website.

This morning we took the 2 km drive from the hotel to the ruins of the same name (Kohunlich), skirting some nasty potholes on the way and driving into some of the most Jurassic jungle I have yet seen in the area. Very similar to a visit a few years back to the Lamanai Mayan site in Belize.

Giant cohune (or cohoon) palms are everywhere; from these is extracted cohune oil. Along with other products derived from this plant, cohune oil is believed to have been used by the Maya since pre-Columbian times as a lubricant, for cooking and soap making as well as lamp oil.

Not being a Mayan scholar, what I found fascinating - along with the actual site of course - is its strange name. It turns out that there once was a logging camp nearby by the name of Clarksville. Belize is just a few miles away, so I suppose some Engish speaking loggers set up camp to cut down what they could. One of them popped into what was the ancient Mayan city and seeing all the cohune palms, called the area Cohoon Ridge. This became what I believe is one of the first Mayanized English place names - Kohunlich!

Exploring the site during a pandemic, with not a single tourist about, and early enough in the morning that the man in charge of ticket sales hasn’t arrived yet, the experience is breath-taking. The imposing palms, the moss-covered Mayan stones, and the stillness of the forest with the occasional squawking of bright green parrots overhead make you feel truly an explorer.

KOHUNLICH is best visited from a base in the comfortable Explorean Kohunlich, where a stunning and refreshing pool await along with a nicely chilled cerveza. I would recommend two days here, so you could also visit Dzibanche and Kinichna. Then, another couple of days in Xpujil from where you will visit the mother of all Mayan sites: the majestic and once all-powerful city of Calakmul. That site I will write about next time.





La Casa del Monifato de Sisal / Sisal's Casa del Monifato

On a recent trip to Sisal, I noticed a stone-carved plaque on the corner of a reddish building as you enter the town. On your left, you will notice it - a sparse, severe building with a stone figure on the top which is another sign that something interesting and not your average “old building” is going on.

After spending a lot of time half-deciphering the plaque, which is written in the style I call “Old Spanish Sailor Illiterate” where the j’s and the g’s are, along with the c’s the s’s, and the z’s used indiscriminately, spacing is unheard of and letters are often doubled up to save space, I had enough to Google what I had made out and find the rest of the inscription. This further investigation - as often happens - of course led to some more interesting facts coming to light, in this case having to do with the figure on the top of the building who is the monifato in the name of this corner/bulding.

The plaque, on the corner of the building. Immediately the word ORTIZ (a surname) jumps out and also the date, 1585.

The plaque, on the corner of the building. Immediately the word ORTIZ (a surname) jumps out and also the date, 1585.

The text (above) says:

“ES DE EL ILUSTRE SENOR IOAN DE ORDVNA Y DE SV MVGER DONA GERONIMA ORTIZ Y DE SVS HEREDEROS MDLXXXV”

Translated to English, the plaque makes it known that the house belongs to one Señor Ioan (Juan) de Orduña and his woman (wife) Doña Geronima Ortiz and their heirs. Immediately following the text is the year: 1585.

The “ilustre” I got from the excellent article written on the subject by Angel Gutierrez (https://www.puntomedio.mx/el-monifato-de-sisal/) or I would have never guessed what that contraction meant.

In his article, he also states that the inscription shows that the building and the statue on its roof predate the Montejo house in Merida. The use of the barbarian figure, bearded, covered in hair and wearing a minimal amount of clothing and carrying a club, can also be found on the facade of our friend Montejo’s house on the formerly white city’s main square.

The theory is that the roof-top figure would serve as a focal point for the spy-glasses of arriving pirate or enemy ships whose captains would then direct their cannons to fire upon what was an apparent watchman, thereby sparing the more important buildings in Sisal.

On your visit to Sisal, keep an eye out for this and other interesting details. Like the strange remains of a well on the sidewalk nearby, that definitely looks old, Its mere existence indicates that it is historically significant. I’ll look into that also, in another post on this blog!

Sisal for the Day

A day trip to the beach.

Who doesn’t love a few hours on the beach? Sun, sand, the ocean, and a cute little town to visit. And yes, a ceviche and freshly fried fish to go along with an ice-cold cerveza. Even a little street art in the form of murals. All within an hour’s drive of the formerly white city of Merida.

Sisal was once the main port of the Yucatan (after Campeche was turned over to the Campechnos and before Progreso) and all kinds of goods were shipped from here to Cuba. Including, tragically, Mayan slaves to work on Cuban sugar plantations. Yes, many a fancy Yucatecan surname is associated with the traffic of human beings somewhere down their lineage, contributing to their wealth and stature. A dark part of history glossed over by the brochures.

There is construction on the road between Hunucma and Sisal at the time of this writing so take it easy - you will make it even if you have to slow down a bit here and there. The highway “improvements” will increase traffic to this gem of a beach, thereby probably ruining it in the foreseeable future, so take advantage of the fact that it’s not completed just yet and go NOW.

We can get you there and ensure you have a great day on a private tour just for you and yours. No strangers to clog up the experience. No time limits, we go as long as you like. We do what YOU want!

Contact us here and we’ll set it up!

Inspired by Netflix: a Trip to Yaxunah and a Visit with Rosalia Chay

Yaxunah Chef Rosalia Chay Chuc and her famous box keken (hairless pig) cochinita pibil. Out of this world!

Yaxunah Chef Rosalia Chay Chuc and her famous box keken (hairless pig) cochinita pibil. Out of this world!

Inspired and motivated by having seen her on an episode of Netflix Chef’s Table BBQ series, I decided that this was definitely a destination worth checking out as someplace new and different we could visit, and the promise of exquisite food made the decision so much easier.

Yaxunah is a tiny village about 25 minutes from the world-famous Chichen Itzá, where you are immersed in the peaceful feel of a Mayan village, and far removed from the crushing commercial activity, the mercenary official and unofficial guides, the nauseating noise of jaguar whistles and a million trampling feet of red-faced tourists from Cancun.

In Yaxunah you can feel time slow down; you can breathe in the oppressive oxygen-laden air of the lush vegetation everywhere and appreciate friendly locals who immediately smile and return a wave.

An amazing roofless church in town. No mention of it’s history anywhere on the many sites that offer info on Yaxunah. Caste War? Rain? Gilberto? If anyone knows what happened to this church, let me know!

There is a Mayan archeological site within walking or biking distance from the village, blessedly free of a gift shop, an INAH marker or a ticket booth. Villagers administer the site and sell a few locally made wares including honey on the grounds. There are no ridiculously translated-into-English signs like there are at Uxmal or Chichen. “Not Rise to Structures” is not on display here and you can explore at your own pace or hire someone local, if you prefer. The site is small, but interesting and includes a ball court as well as other platforms and altars, for the most part reconstructed. There is jungle everywhere and on a pandemic kind of visit, with few other humans around there are bird as well to be observed.

While there, I observed a couple arrive on a motorcycle. They dismounted and began to climb the largest structure, a pyramid-like altar about 20 meters or more high. Thinking they were up to some romantic hany panky I made a remark to that effect to one of the caretakers.

No” he corrected me. “Están subiendo para hacer una llamada”.

That’s how I found out about an interesting function of the highest structure at Yaxunah: it is used as a telephone “booth” as it has cell phone reception when there isn’t any down below, including in the town.

Here are some quick shots of the Mayan site of Yaxunah from October 2020, day of my visit (text continues below):

In the town there is a spectacular cenote surrounded by a true jungle of trees and vines and stone stairs heading down to the water, which was high at the time of my visit. There is also an attractive cultural center that, for the time being is shut down to avoid any COVID-related issues, where one can learn about the history of the area (think Caste War drama) as well as the culinary prowess of the local cooks.

Speaking of food, the trip here was inspired by Rosalia Chay, a local chef who was “discovered” by Merida celebrity chef Roberto Solis of Nectar fame, who was in the area scouting for ingredients and meat in particular. His visit prompted more visits from other chefs and one thing led to another and a Netflix crew showed up and filmed a segment, catapulting her into instant worldwide recognition.

She still cooks for regular mortals like us and so we took in the full experience, from visiting her hair-free piglets to digging up chachak waj (tamales) cooked underground and savoring the exquisite flavor of her cochinita pibil and relleno negro. She is happy to share her knowledge with anyone who asks and like a proper Mayan lady, wastes no time with useless banter.

“Can we buy some of the tamales to take home?”

“No, those are for the family”

“OK”

The pib, an underground cooking pit that is typical here is where the magic happens and she uses branches of the pixoy tree to add the smoky flavor to the foods cooked among the hot stones of the pib. As a visitor, if you are so inclined you can help uncover the cooking pit and extract the goodies waiting for you, hot, fragrant and delicious. Everything she makes from scratch and her own property, from the pork to the salsas to the refreshing agua de lima to accompany your meal, taken in what used to be her home, a thatched palapa now set up as a dining room with pretty ceramic plates and colorful table runners on a communal table.