yucatan

Chacmultun: the last site on the Puuc Route

At the southern end of the Puuc route, which begins in Uxmal and extends through Kabah, Labna, Sayil and other less-known and some completely unrestored settlements still hiding in the jungle, there sits Chacmultun. Chacmultun means hill of red rock, which is the original name its discoverers gave it as the stone quarries in the region produce red limestone, as opposed to the whiter version in the northern part of the Yucatan peninsula. In fact, many Mayan sites are known by names that probably have nothing to do with their original names; given that there is no text to consult, no stellae to interpret, no record at all. That big hill in Coba? We’ll just call it Nohoch Mul. Big Hill. OK.

Back to Chacmultun. This site is a collection of three or four settlements, with Puuc-style temples and mounds, clustered around a small, fertile valley filled with rich red earth which would have been the agricultural production center at the time (it still is used for farming now).

You will see partially restored buildings complete with friezes, cornices and decorative elements, some of which are cracked, others still intact. You can visit and clamber around most of the site, and will notice some very lame efforts by the INAH to “preserve” some of what is there. Some of the restoration is also quite miserable, the chultun in the main part of Chacmultun proper being a prime example (see photo). In one of the buildings there are paintings on the wall and to preserve them the specialists at INAH have simply plastered over them. To protect stellae on the ground, depicting hieroglyphs and carvings, they have been flipped over so the sun and rain don’t erode them. Very high tech. Parts of the structures have crumbled into ruinous but very recognizable chunks, which would not be that difficult to restore, if there were some will on the part of the folks in charge.

The view from one of the areas visited - Xet Pol I believe - a long walk on a small road through the fertile field and up a small hill, is truly stunning. You feel you can see to the end of the world from there, and the breeze under a shady tree is a most welcome sensation.

The site is stunning and highly recommended if you have any interest in the history of the Mayans in this area. My guide said that the area was populated from the year 300 BC to just before the Spanish arrived at the end of the 1400’s and commercially was important as much of the paper and exotic bird feathers came from the area.

Take a Guide and take Water on Ice

You can hire a guide locally (none at the site, check in Tekax tourism office) and you will get so much more out of the experience than if you go alone. Once at the site, note that you will be required to pay an entry fee of about 50 pesos per person and that there is NO water of any kind for visitors, which included bathroom facilities. None. So make sure you have taken care of your bathroom needs before getting there. When you finish the tour, be aware there is nothing hydrating available, so have that with you in your ice box in the air conditioned vehicle.

There is a lot of walking and if you go in June, as I did very recently, the 2-3 hour visit under a blazing summer sun which feels relentless will make your head explode. That cooler with water, Gatorade or similar and plenty of ice, a vehicle with air conditioning; these will make the trip a far better experience and possibly save you from getting heat stroke.

Lawson’s Original Yucatan Excursions can design a custom and private excursion to the area, which I suggest should be a two day trip with an overnight in Tekax. This way you can enjoy the site on one day, relax in the evening and enjoy the town of Tekax, and the next day hit some caves before returning to Merida. Contact us at lawsonsyucatan@gmail.com for more info or to book this trip.

Photos

Las Coloradas, Salt Production Center of the Yucatan - Day 1

On a good road trip, the journey there should be as much fun as the actual destination. In this post are some of the highlights for a trip to Las Coloradas, the salt flats that are near Rio Lagartos and lately famous for their “pink lagoons” which are man made evaporation ponds vital to the production of salt. The area was used by the Mayans back in the day, and in the 1930’s a businessman from Merida bought the land and began what is now one of the country’s major salt producers, with 80% of the salt produced going to the national market. The commercial brand of the salt produced here is Sal Sol and you can find it in any local supermarket.

Starting in Merida, you can take one of two routes: the toll or free highway to Valladolid and then up through Tizimin and on to the coast; or, the back road which start by heading towards Motul, home of the famous huevos motuleños, served up by doña Evelia in the municipal market. This should be your route and Motul your first stop, for breakfast of one, two or three (or more!) eggs.

With your breakfast completed and sustenance assured for the trip, have a look at the cenote and church before leaving Motul. Definitely worth a look!

The destination on this trip, for Day 1, was Tizimin, where an airbnb rental was waiting for us. Along the way there are plenty of stops to be made here and there and your trip can take anywhere between 2 and 4 hours, depending on how much fun you are having or how many photos you feel inspired to take. In our case, it took most of the day. Notice at kilometer 61, you will feel the need, the urge, to stop and photograph this pink gem. Temax is a good photo stop as well, and Chenché de las Torres is truly out of this world, if you can get in.

Finally, we arrived at Tizimin and after some navigational challenges with Google Maps and the recently changed one-way street system, we arrived around 4 PM at our airbnb.

In the evening a little dinner, walking and exploring downtown Tizimin on foot and by car - it reminded me of Merida 30 years ago - and then back to rest up for the following day, which was to be all about the salt, the beach and a most amazing Tikin Xic lunch!

Calakmul, Campeche

One of the greatest Mayan ruins sites on the peninsula, Calakmul is also a jungle paradise where you can see many local animals; including - if you are very lucky - the elusive jaguar. If you are looking for a "lost city in the jungle" this is definitely it.

The trip I recently did was Merida - Campeche - Champoton (lunch by the sea) - Escarcega - Xpujil where we overnighted in a small but decent enough hotel. The next day was spent at Calakmul and we returned to Xpujil for the evening. On the third day, onwards to Chetumal where I left my guests to take their flight back to San Miguel de Allende via Mexico City. The drive back from Chetumal to Merida takes about 5 hours if not making any stops. 

For a future trip I would spend more time in the area, as there are many other ruins sites to visit. Perhaps 5 days total leaving from and returning to Merida, making stops here and there during the driving portions of the trip.